Mule Trail
Old paved mule track between Piana and Ota, a balcony trail above the calanques, sea and pink rocks, striking at sunset.
8 km · Difficult · Pink granite and a 360° view — starting from Piana
Capo Rosso is that enormous mass of pink granite, the second westernmost point of Corsica, crowned with a Genoese tower and visible from far out at sea. The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Gulf of Porto). The summit reaches 331 m — almost the height of the Eiffel Tower — and this is one of the most iconic hikes in the region, as well as one of the most demanding.
This one is serious: it's one of the hottest hikes in Corsica. The red granite soaks up and radiates the heat from early morning. I do not recommend it during the hot part of summer, even setting off early. Water is mandatory: there is no water point along the route, and the spring is dry.
It's a hike with no shade, which first descends gently to the foot of the tower, then strings together one brutal climb. Towards the end, there's a way to loop around the cape for a small circuit rather than climbing straight up from the foot of the tower: that's by the less steep side.
To reach Capo Rosso, head for Piana. After the pharmacy, take the turning on the right — it's easy to spot: there's a swimwear shop on the bend, and the Banana Moon signs are very visible. About fifteen minutes later, you arrive at the start of the hike, on the D824 (the road that leads to Arone beach), at the Col d'Orsini.
A large free car park avoids any parking trouble, and a refreshment stand is open at the start of the hike during the summer season. From the car park, you can already see the whole route and the goal to reach: the tower, set right at the end of the row of summits shaped like "teeth".
Unusually for Corsica, the path starts by descending, gently, through the maquis. The first three quarters are easy and well marked, down to the sheepfold below, where a few cows graze.
This is where you find the stone circles (the aghja, or threshing floors). Grain was gathered here: the spot, particularly windy, dried the grain, and by "beating" it you removed the husk. The circles kept the seeds from being lost.
Then the path tackles the big climb: it works around the cape on the western side, following a fault in the rock, fitted with a few low walls and rough steps, all the way to the tower. No shade at all — it's tough under the sun, hence the reminder about water and good footwear.
At the summit, the view is a full 360°: Cargèse and the Gulf of Sagone to the south, the Gulf of Porto and the Scandola reserve to the north, the Calanques de Piana, and inland the Paglia Orba. On the north and east sides, the cliff drops sheer: take care, especially with children, as there is no barrier at all.
The tower is the Turghiu Tower, built in 1608 and long guarded by the Greeks of Cargèse. Like all the Genoese towers along the coast, it was used to watch the sea: to signal the presence of ships and judge their intentions. You can enter it by an outer staircase, then climb up to the platform via a narrow, dark inner stair.
At the end, I strongly recommend diving straight into the sea. Piana has two lovely beaches right nearby — the best reward after a climb like that:
8 km — return trip.
~3h30 return.
+450 m — summit at 331 m (≈ Eiffel Tower).
Difficult — no shade, very hot in summer, sheer cliffs at the summit.
Mandatory. No water point, spring is dry. 2 L minimum per person.
Hôtel Le Vaïta is on the Porto marina, about twenty minutes from Piana and the start of Capo Rosso. Our reception team can advise on the best time to set off (beware of the heat!), the water to bring and the other hikes around the gulf. Book direct for our best guaranteed rate.